The first two-thirds or so are easy scrambling on loose rock: it is important to get an early start and be the first party on the peak or to select a line that is not below other climbers. Injuries from falling rock are not uncommon here. The first obstacle is a band of harder -- and therefore steeper -- rock that is obvious from the hut; good route finding can discover scramble routes through this band. An easier angle, but even looser rock, leads for the final one-third to the North Ridge.
The individuals in most parties will climb individually to this point, although a few may wish the security of the rope when ascending the gray band. Once on the ridge, the climbing gets more interesting and the rock is far harder and more stable. Again, some parties climb the entire North Ridge unroped and without the placement of pro; however, because the steepness of the North Face increases as one proceeds toward the summit and the exposure of the Eest Face is, well, inspiring, most climbers will want to take reasonable precautions -- even a minor slip could be... To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
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