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Logan - King Trench
Timestamp Free: 2018.12.11 - 22:33:11
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Saint Elias Mountains / Icefield Ranges
  (null days)
Description of King Trench route, with maps.
Grade II+ F.A. Albert MacCarthy, Norman Read, Allen Carpe, William Foster, H.Lambart, Andy Taylor May-July,1925)The King Trench is considered the normal route on Mount Logan. It does not involves much technical climbing, but shouldn't be underestimated because of the risk of high altitude symptoms and the potential for severe weather.Most people fly in to the King Trench base camp (102183) from the airstrip at Kluane Lake near Silver City or from a lodge in Wrangell-Saint Elias park in Alaska. [photo]KingTrenchMap.jpg[caption]King Trench Map[/photo]

From base camp, head east into the King Trench. Avoid crevasses at the mouth of the trench by staying left or by going to the far right and squeezing between the crevasses and avalanche slopes. The trench is about 2 km wide and it is wise travel close its centre to avoid avalanches. A resonably safe place to camp exists at 169191).

The next convenient camp site is near the end of the trench at the King Col (215173). This a good place to acclimatize for a few days before going further up the mountain, and is as far as you'd want to haul a heavy sled.

From the King Col, head north and climb about 200 m of up to 50-degree snow, skirting left of the first icefall. Continue east as the slope eases until you reach the second icefall. The configuration of this icefall changes from year to year but there is usually a convenient way through. Some parties set up camp past the second icefall while others continue through the third icefall to a good campsite at 241182.

A few hundred meters past the last campsite, a huge bergschrund can open up in late season but is usually spanned by a strong snow bridge. The last place for relatively sheltered camp site is at 255184.

To reach the plateau while avoiding...

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