From base camp, head east into the King Trench. Avoid crevasses at the mouth of the trench by staying left or by going to the far right and squeezing between the crevasses and avalanche slopes. The trench is about 2 km wide and it is wise travel close its centre to avoid avalanches. A resonably safe place to camp exists at 169191).
The next convenient camp site is near the end of the trench at the King Col (215173). This a good place to acclimatize for a few days before going further up the mountain, and is as far as you'd want to haul a heavy sled.
From the King Col, head north and climb about 200 m of up to 50-degree snow, skirting left of the first icefall. Continue east as the slope eases until you reach the second icefall. The configuration of this icefall changes from year to year but there is usually a convenient way through. Some parties set up camp past the second icefall while others continue through the third icefall to a good campsite at 241182.
A few hundred meters past the last campsite, a huge bergschrund can open up in late season but is usually spanned by a strong snow bridge. The last place for relatively sheltered camp site is at 255184.
To reach the plateau while avoiding... To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)