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Mt. Vayu - access and the FA of "Bre-X Buttress"
Timestamp Free: 2021.01.25 - 22:48:37
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Bridge-Lillooet Divide
  (2 days)
Participants: Mike Buda; Drew Brayshaw Grade III 5.8, one move of aid.
A new route up Mount Vayu in southwest British Columbia. The Bre-X Buttress route involved 7 pitches of rock up to 5.8, often dirty, wet and/or loose but with 2 good pitches.
When the 1997 Canadian Alpine Journal came out, an article in the Coast section by Don Serl caught my eye. Part of the article described the FA of the north ridge of Mt. Vayu, and it was illustrated with a picture which made Vayu look like a dream summit - a pointy tower with good rock and unclimbed lines beckoning invitingly. The associated article described the route as a great one with good rock.

For the BC Day long weekend of 1997, Mike Buda and I decided to head in to Vayu to check it out, and possibly climb something new. We drove up from Vancouver on Friday night and headed up the roads in Jamie Creek. The Jamie Creek road heads uphill from Downton Lake and had just been waterbarred in its upper spurs when we were there. As we didn't have a map of the road system, we ended up camping in a pullout part way up the road to avoid missing any spur.

The next day, we found the road fork leading into the west fork of Jamie Creek, and drove up it as far as Mike's Subaru wagon could possibly go - most of the way, as it turned out. From here three hours of hiking along game trails in the valley of Jamie Creek, crossing a fair amount of blowdown and rockslides, but with no devil's club, saw us to the amazing "pocket meadow" at the base of the lowest moraines below the glacier NE of Mt. Vayu. See photo Pocket meadow campsite near Vayu

We set up camp, sat out a rain shower, and then clambered up pumice slopes to the ridge north of camp and continued along to the high point, pk. 8281 on the map. This involved a little bit of 3rd class ridge scrambling. We built a cairn (despite the spot height, the peak had no cairn) and scoped out Vayu, then made a rapid pumice boot-ski back to camp.

The following morning we were up bright and early. We climbed the...

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