In June of 1998, David Persson, Jeremy Frimer and I set off to climb the route, choosing the first weekend as the best time. We knew that fall ascents are often stopped by the seracs of the lower face, and figured that with plenty of spring snow around this danger would be minimized. To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
Driving out from Vancouver went according to plan, and we headed up the Depot Creek road from Chilliwack Lake following the directions given in Beckey's Cascade guide Vol. 3. However, a slight omission in the guide led us to some unnecessary bushwacking. For the record, once you have driven Depot Creek road to the point where an old bridge crosses the creek, continue a short distance on the same bank (don't cross the bridge) until you meet a junction, with the forks heading uphill and straight ahead. This is where most vehicles will be forced to park. Unfortunately, the guide is a bit ambiguous about which fork to take. We went straight ahead and fucked around in beaver dams and regrowing alder for an hour. The correct route is to take the uphill fork, then turn right at the next junction. This road leads right to the border swath and had had its alders chopped down to make an easily walkable trail when we were on it.
Once we had found the border, and the trail, it was easy to follow, and climbed through nice old growth on the US side. Eventually we reached the dreaded headwall and waterfalls,...
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