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Le Grand Brazeau Summer Traverse
Timestamp Free: 2021.01.25 - 20:50:20
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges / Le Grand Brazeau Range
  (7 days)
Participants: Robin Tivy; Klaus Haring;
Difficulty: 3: Brazeau is easy class 3, some crevasses when traversing Valad Peak.
This article describes a 7 day loop, climbing Mt Brazeau via Henry Macleod and Valad Peak then Mt. Cornucopia (10,530') and Mt Poboktan (10,902').
The Mount Brazeau area is ideal for a low key climbing trip. Brazeau itself is fairly straightforward, the final summit being a steep hike up a rocky slope, often covered with fresh snow. To reach the peak, one traverses across two other high peaks (Henry Macleod 3315 m and Valad Peak (3000 m). Numerous other peaks can be climbed along the way and you will probably not meet any other party once you are into the "back country" beyond the more heavily travelled Poboktan trail.

Day 1 - Highway to Swan Pass
From the Banff Jasper highway, (117:26.5-52:27.0) we hiked up the main trail up lower Poboktan Creek, past Poligne Creek, to the point where the East Fork of Poboktan creek crosses the trail (117:21-52:28). Here we turned north and went up the valley of the North Fork. At the end of the valley we climbed up to the 2650 m pass (or 2500 m?) I call "Swan Pass".(52:30.3-117:16). No ropes were required for this, its just a steep walk. At the top of Swan Pass, we made our first camp.

Day 2 - Mount Brazeau
We got up early, and since the weather looked fine, headed along the ridge toward Henry McLeod and Brazeau. The first part of the route goes past some formidible looking glaciers. The part we walked on was fairly smooth snow, but we put the rope on. Eventually we came to the same steep gulley that I remembered on an earlier attempt on Brazeau in 1976, which leads to the summit of Henry Mcleod, the first of two 10,000 peaks that must be traversed before Brazeau. The gulley is an easy scramble, with no rock climbing moves, and as far as I remember, we took the rope off for the gulley.

Once on top of Henry McLeod we traversed north, over the top of Valad peak, bypassing small bumps on the ridge by going out onto the glacier just to the east. See...

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