Cam Cambell, Graham Quan and I took off from Vancouver Friday night, the first weekend in June. We tooled out to the Sumallo road in Graham's VW Westfalia and camped at the end of the 2WD-able road section, just past the Silvertipped (AKA Sunshine) ski area turnoff. Knowing the climb was supposed to take "a full day" we decided to get an alpine start - 7 AM was the wake up time...
The next day we hiked down the Sumallo road to the Silvertip-Rideout cirque, taking about an hour. Crossing a bridge, we bashed through some second growth and gained avalanche debris below Silvertip's north face. From here a long, low angled snow gully took us up to a bowl below the lower NE ridge.
From the bowl, we could have climbed some 60 degree snow to a notch on the ridge, but there seemed to be difficult pinnacles above the notch which would require lots of time to traverse. Instead, we contoured along a snow ledge on the N. side of the ridge, then gained a broad couloir which climbed back to the ridge immediately below the final summit pyramid. Snow quality was poor and trail breaking was hard work - by the time we had eaten lunch and racked up it was already 2 PM.
We thought we would have only 2-3 pitches of technical climbing to go to reach the summit - wrongly, as it turned out. 9 pitches of 4th and 5th class climbing, on narrow snow aretes and crumbly rock faces, later, we pulled onto the summit - 6 PM and 11 hours after leaving the... To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
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