Trip Page   Home     Help   Index     Login
An Ascent of the Marshall
Timestamp Free: 2020.07.07 - 03:15:32
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges
  (3 days)
Participants: David Shadbolt, Rick Collier
Difficulty: 2: Easy to moderate scrambling
After several previous attempts, David and I finally find a reasonable route up this large, remote, and frustrating peak.
The Marshal (10,465' or 3190m) has a long and varied climbing history; although it's ascent is not difficult once the proper route is discovered, the problems involved in sorting out this route from other possibilities make this one of the most formidable and time-consuming mountains that I have climbed.

The Marshal (GR 923370 on 82 J/13 - Mount Assiniboine) is a peak that is part of the high uplift massif that includes Mt. Assiniboine and then, to the NE, Magog, Terrapin, and The Towers; to the S and E, Lunette, Eon, Aye, and Gloria; to the NE, Strom, Wedgwood, and Sunburst; and (generally) to the W, Sturdee, The Marshal, and Watson. According to Glen Boles, it received its name from the Alberta Boundary Commission "for its leading position to the west of the Assiniboine group" ("Place Names of the Canadian Alps," 193). Because it is relatively close to Assiniboine Lodge, it was often in the past the target of local climbing forays.

I'd attempted The Marshal two times by different routes before the current climb(s) in 2002, and found it to be high, loose, difficult, and virtually impenetrable from nearly all directions. My first attempt was on August 12, 1992, when I spent five days on my own at Lake Magog. I climbed the headwall above Magog Lake, hiked passed the Hind Hut, and got my first glimpse of this crenellated black fortress from Mt. Strom; my plan was to traverse the ridge that joined Strom with my objective, a route that, with an excess of notches and dark towers, looked quite imposing - and all this scrambling was simply a prelude to the actual Marshal massif and its complex E ridge. But I wasn't just winging it - apparently this was the ascent route of Ernest Feuz and an unnamed party of ACC folks in 1920. They claimed to have reached the summit...

To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)