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Mount King George Expedition 1995
Timestamp Free: 2019.09.23 - 11:07:08
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Saint Elias Mountains / Icefield Ranges
  (29 days)
Participants: Paul Knott, Ade Miller Remote but fairly non-technical climbing.
Attempt on the NE Ridge of Mt. King George. The first British ascent of Mt. Queen Mary by a new route via the S Ridge and unclimbed Peaks 3118 m, and 3089 m.
See Bivouac Routes:
  Mount King George - Route Summary
  Mount Queen Mary - Route Summary

We based on the Canadian side of the border which required gaining permission from the Kluane National Park. Although the restriction on the minimum party size has been lifted and medical certificates are no longer required parties are still required to register and a park fee is payable . In 1996 a fee of $5 CAN per person per day, up to a maximum of ten days, and $30 CAN for each plane landing.

We flew from London to Seattle and then on to Yakutat the following morning. The overnight stopover in Seattle allowed us to buy the majority of the expedition food and some additional equipment. In Yakutat we used Gulf Air Taxi , the only glacier landing equipped service on the Alaskan side of the range, to fly into our basecamp.

Flying from Yakutat rather than from the Canadian side involved a shorter flight. This was not only cheaper but from previous experiences also less susceptible to bad weather. Our flight back to Yakutat proved somewhat costly as the Kurt Gloyer, the Gulf Air pilot, spent some time searching for us which cost additional flying hours.

Gulf Air rented us an FM radio phone. We were not charged for this because it didn't work due to a faulty antenna. The radio turned out to be largely useless as our basecamp beneath King George was so sheltered that we were unable to even receive the marine weather reports. They sold Coleman Fuel (in US gal cans - unused cans could be returned), and lent us sleds and marker wands. We camped opposite the hangar, and used the hanger itself for sorting gear. Showers are available for $7 US at Yakutat Jack's bar (near the airport terminal).

Mount King George
We approached from the North...

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