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Dunn Peak - North face fun
Timestamp Free: 2020.09.23 - 06:32:00
Ranges: North America Ranges / Columbia Mountains / Monashee Mountains / Shuswap Highland
Participants: Jason Dixon, Danilo Caron (photographer) Steep, 8 rope lengths of 45 degree ice.
A late season trip to Dunn Peak with a planned bivy near the summit, and some rotten luck on the way down.
Having lived in Kamloops my whole life, Dunn peak has always been visible. The peak towers above the surrounding ridges when one looks at it up the North Thompson River valley from various locations in town. It is therefore no surprise that once I took up climbing as a pastime it found its place on the 'to do' list. I'd been there a couple of other times, but for various reasons like time, weather or conditions I hadn't made the summit. Finally in October 2000 it had made it to the top of the list (I suspect like most climbers lists, mine changes with the season, partners, time, weather, etc.) and my partner Danilo Caron and I made arrangements. Now Danilo is the type of climbing partner everyone would like, he just likes to go on trips. Danilo doesn't care what, where, or why, he's just happy to go, therefore I get to pick from my list every time.
Now I'm not sure when in the planning process it became a good idea to bivy at the summit (no tent of course), but that was the plan. Since we were planning to bivy no early start was required, we didn't leave the trailhead until 12:15pm. The initial part of the trail is rather hard to locate and follow, so when after about 45 minutes of bashing around and only about 500m covered we were pleased to find it. Once on the trail we made good time over a low pass and down into the valley of Joseph creek. Turning left we followed the trail south along the creek, the trail is easy to follow here, not too steep and quite picturesque. At about 3:30pm we arrived at the usual bivy spot for climbs on Dunn, a perfectly flat grassy meadow right beside the creek. I don't think a more comfortable bivy spot could be found, but it wasn't for us, we were camping on top! After a break to have something to eat and to fill the water bottles we...
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