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Saddle Peak - Possible First Ascent
Timestamp Free: 2020.05.25 - 04:01:04
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Front Ranges
  (2 days)
Participants: Mardy Roberts; Rick Collier
Difficulty: 3: Moderate bushwhacking; easy scrambling
After ascending from the N, the party scrambled the W ridge,to a possible first ascent of Saddle Peak.
On March 28, 1992,Alsitair Des Moulins, Christine Grotefeld, Bob Saunders, Reg Bonney, Carmie Callanan, and Rick Collier skied and hiked a goodly ways up the S Ghost to attempt Saddle Peak from the S. After camping, ascended a drainage to the N to attain the long, sinuous E/SE ridge of Saddle, which was easily followed to within a few hundred feet of the summit.

But as so often happens with these peaks the summit cone was made of the hardest rock and was therefore well defended by cliffs: we were confronted with a difficult rock-climbing ridge that was also nastily coated with snow and ice (being part of a northerly exposure). After some lengthy consultation, we decided to turn back, although it appeared as if a considerable traverse under the summit cone to the W might allow us to reach the W ridge, which appeared to be a less complex route.

The next year (June, 1993) Mardy Roberts and I approached Saddle from the Minnewanka Gap, camping in the nearby designated campground just N of the west Ghost Lakes. We followed the valley S of the campground to the col between Saddle Peak and its subsidiary to the W -- some interesting hoodoos lower down; we then easily ascended the scree and snow of the W ridge to the summit, thus proving the previous year's hypothesis. No cairn was found on the...

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