But as so often happens with these peaks the summit cone was made of the hardest rock and was therefore well defended by cliffs: we were confronted with a difficult rock-climbing ridge that was also nastily coated with snow and ice (being part of a northerly exposure). After some lengthy consultation, we decided to turn back, although it appeared as if a considerable traverse under the summit cone to the W might allow us to reach the W ridge, which appeared to be a less complex route.
The next year (June, 1993) Mardy Roberts and I approached Saddle from the Minnewanka Gap, camping in the nearby designated campground just N of the west Ghost Lakes. We followed the valley S of the campground to the col between Saddle Peak and its subsidiary to the W -- some interesting hoodoos lower down; we then easily ascended the scree and snow of the W ridge to the summit, thus proving the previous year's hypothesis. No cairn was found on the... To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
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