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Mount Louis Climb
Timestamp Free: 2020.02.22 - 20:19:21
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Front Ranges / Sawback Range / Mystic Range
  (1 days)
Participants: Vaughan Wallace, Steve Tober
Difficulty: 5: Rock climbing to 5.7
Iíve looked UP at the awe inspiring peak of Mt. Louis for 20 years and have admired its beauty from many other peaks and vantage points.
After a restless night in the van at the Fireside trail head, we set off at 4 a.m. with a near full moon saving us some headlamp juice. We got our 1st glimpse of Louis as we came up Edith Pass. The magnitude of this brooding monolith had the humbling effect of making one want to crawl under a rock, rather than climb one. By 6:30 a.m. we were scrambling up the base past trees and shrubs liberally decorated with slings.

Erring on the side of caution we roped up for the 5-7 m pitch up a water worn groove (5.4). More scrambling brought us up to the SE side and a traverse along ledges to the rap gully. This easy two pitch traverse is now protected by 10 or more shiny new bolts and a couple of two bolt anchors, so new in fact, powdered limestone from the drill was still in evidence. "Why bolts here," we thought? This was easier than a lot of what we'd scrambled below!?

Wondering if someone had just bolted the route all the way to the summit, we down climbed the 25m gully to get on the south side, onto a rib for a short bit and up a wide shallow gully past the odd pin and new bolt. Upon gaining the proper rib to the summit, we roped up for another short 6-8 m pitch (5.4), opting to anchor a few slings around a knob, rather than the ill placed bolt below. With one pin to clip into we arrived at the expansive platform below the summit wall at 11:30 a.m.

Once at the Tower base, we were surprised not only by the lack of technical climbing to this point, and the fact that we were expecting 3 pitches on the rib, but also by a 20 ft Tyrolean traverse between the detached flake of the E face and the main summit block. Mesmerized by the pulley glistening in the sun, we surmised whether someone had finally bolted their way up the featureless diamond and had rigged the...

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