[photo]1.jpg[caption]Fred, below Cerberus[/photo]
The route ascends a subsidiary arete just left of the "Abe Lincoln snowpatch," visible at bottom center of the rockface as seen in this view, then follows the snow arete to the summit.
Upon close inspection, it appeared that there were a lot of seracs threatening the intended north face route but I skied around below the southeast face to scope out a buttress that ascended the eastern-most portion of that face to intersect the Northeast Arete at about one-third height. The day after that, Fred wanted to take a rest day so Jim and I entertained ourselves with a quick trip up the nearby west face of Dagon Peak which gave us a chance to do a little ice climbing and get to know each other's travel habits a little bit.
After being there about four days, it was time to actually try some climbing but I hurt my back lifting a rock in camp, and was forced by a pinched nerve to sit and lie around for another two days. By this time Fred had announced that he was still tender following his breaking a couple of ribs a month earlier and he wasn't going to be able to climb... To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)