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Northeast Arete of Cerberus Mountain: III, 5.6, snow and ice to 45 degrees.
Timestamp Free: 2020.07.03 - 17:40:04
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges
  (1 days)
Participants: Matt Perkins, Fred Beckey, Jim Ruch
A new route on Cerberus.
Fred Beckey had targeted the unclimbed north face of Cerberus Mountain and organized a trip to the Monarch Icefield where six of us shared a helicopter ride that left us camped on a nunatak at about 8,000 feet and three miles east of Cerberus, though one of our party had flown right back out as soon as he flew in because he had a raging tooth infection and our radio did not seem to be working so he feared the possibility of having serious complications far from any assistance. Fred and I stayed in camp to acclimate on the first day while Jim Ruch took a short ski tour, and the next day he stayed in camp while Fred and I skied over to look at Cerberus.

[photo]1.jpg[caption]Fred, below Cerberus[/photo]

The route ascends a subsidiary arete just left of the "Abe Lincoln snowpatch," visible at bottom center of the rockface as seen in this view, then follows the snow arete to the summit.

Upon close inspection, it appeared that there were a lot of seracs threatening the intended north face route but I skied around below the southeast face to scope out a buttress that ascended the eastern-most portion of that face to intersect the Northeast Arete at about one-third height. The day after that, Fred wanted to take a rest day so Jim and I entertained ourselves with a quick trip up the nearby west face of Dagon Peak which gave us a chance to do a little ice climbing and get to know each other's travel habits a little bit.

After being there about four days, it was time to actually try some climbing but I hurt my back lifting a rock in camp, and was forced by a pinched nerve to sit and lie around for another two days. By this time Fred had announced that he was still tender following his breaking a couple of ribs a month earlier and he wasn't going to be able to climb...

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