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Stymied on the South Ridge of 8380
Timestamp Free: 2020.08.03 - 03:45:38
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Bridge-Lillooet Divide
  (2 days)
Participants: Jordan Peters, Tim LeCouteur
An attempt on the South Ridge was stopped just below the summit in the face of an oncoming storm.
Peak 8380 lies about 2km SSE of Mount Sloan and is a prominent landmark from the Hurley River Road when driving north, yet despite its appearance as a tusk of dark granite with two great ridges dropping to the south, it seems to have escaped much attention. The mountain has still not received a recorded ascent as far as I know, though I would be skeptical that it has completely escaped a "quiet" ascent given its proximity to both Sloan and the Hurley Road. Partly due to the description in Bruce Fairley's guide ("a route of class 5 undoubtedly exists here"), and partly due to the shroud of mystery, I have held a fascination for this peak for a few years now, wondering what has kept parties away. Accosted friends were skeptical, falling back on the old, "well, if it's unclimbed, its probably unclimbed for a reason." Small minds!

From the Hurley Road, the south ridge system appears to offer solid granite of at least low 5th difficulty; consulting 92 J/15 one notices that only the upper half of the buttresses are visible from the road -- a full 1700' of south facing rock! Knowing that the peak is on the drier side of the divide and that its south aspect would melt snow quicker, I set off for an early attempt in mid June. The logical approach seemed to be from the drainage coming off the south side. Cut blocks exist on both sides of this creek but the southern one extends a few hundred feet higher and it was this side that we first tried. Open forest soon gave way into acres of slide alder which proved far too silly for our rack-burdened packs to deal with. Looking back up from the road, I kicked myself as these slide paths were obvious.

Round Two: Armed with a partner with a large tolerance for pointless endeavors and the belief that the north side of the creek...

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