The Lillooet Icefield area has seen, as far as we know, only two climbing expeditions before our small group of climbers paid it a visit during the summer of 1963. A careful study of mountaineering records and maps indicated that the area North and East of the peaks explored by these two previous expeditions had a number of unnamed virgin peaks between 9,000 and 10,000 feet especially around the fringes of the Stanley Smith Glacier (B.C. Map Sheet 92J). After we had picked out two or three likely camp sites on the map a closer scrutiny of the actual climbing area was decided upon and carried out with the help of Roy Mason and his ski-equipped Super Piper Cub plane.
Never has the exploration of a new climbing area been made easier than with the help of an enthusiastic mountaineer-pilot and a high-performance skiplane. After a 11/2-hour flight from Vancouver to the Lillooet Icefield and a series of exploratory circles around the promising looking peaks south of the Stanley Smith Glacier we actually landed right on the future base camp site at 8,300 feet.
Together with Dick Chambers Roy made another trip to the high saddle chosen for the camp site and landed under much more precarious conditions but managed to leave a food cache in the nearest rocks. After two hours of frantic digging to free the plane in the soft snow, they succeeded in taking off again, just missing the first crevasses below the saddle.
Unfortunately our party had to forego the pleasure of being flown in to our base camp directly, but decided to charter a floatplane and fly in to "Silt Lake" which had impressed us during the recce flight as still being quite practical for a landing. This is the lake... To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
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