It was first climbed in August of 1920 by W.W. Foster, E.T. Taylor, Mr. and Mrs. P.S. Thompson. Their ascent is the standard route - it starts on the E ridge and finishes on the N flank. An ACC party led by A.H. MacCarthy climbed the N ridge from the Sturdee Glacier and traversed to the summit a few days later. Englehard and Kutschera did a somewhat more difficult variation on the original ascent route in August, 1934. Murray Toft and Alan Derbyshire performed a winter ascent of the NE face in a demanding tour de force in December of 1976.
According to Glen Boles in "Place Names of the Canadian Alps", "Sir Frederick Charles Doveton Sturdee (1859-1925) was the victorious commander of the British Squadron at the 1914 Battle of the Falkland Islands . . . . Graf Von Spee's command was soundly defeated and its leader met his death. Sturdee was later in command of a part of the Grant Fleet at [the Battle of] Jutland and became Admiral of the Fleet in 1921" (320-21).
There are two standard approach routes: 1). Over the Strom col (at which point Sturdee presents a most imposing aspect) from the Hind Hut and across the Sturdee Glacier to the Sturdee-Assinboine col or 2). Up from Lunette Lake via the niche glacier descending to the S from the Sturdee-Assiniboine col.
However, on July 17, 1994, Reg Bonney and I took a somewhat more roundabout approach: we had just climbed Lunette and had descended... To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
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