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The North Arete of Wedge in Superb Spring Conditions
Timestamp Free: 2020.07.15 - 04:47:02
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Garibaldi Ranges
  (3 days)     Elevation Gain: 2450m
Participants: Richard Wood, Eric Fenster, Sandra Nicol and Scott Nelson
Difficulty: 3: 45 degree snow climbing on there arete, which is quite exposed with big drops on both sides. Crevasses on the Wedgemount Glacier were well bridged this time of year, and other parties weren't roping up.
Four VOCers challenged themselves to climb the North Arete of Wedge, and succeeded.
The plan was hatched in April by Sandra and I, while Ulr was trying to make up for a poor winter. We were too busy with exams to take advantage of the fresh snow, but we did manage to come up with a plan for the Victoria Day long weekend. Wedge Mountain was on our hit list of the summer objectives, having taunted us from the Whistler valley long enough. Some research on bivouac.com had us leaning towards the north arete, but it was Bruce Fairly's words of advice 'best done in spring' that sealed the plan.

A trip notice prompty went up on the VOC's new website, and a few weeks later we discussed out plan at the first VOC barbeque of the summer. There was some interest, but no obvious takers at the time. A week later I had two emails in my inbox. One from Richard Wood, an Australian exchange student with whom I'd been backcountry skiing on several occaisions; the other from Erik Fenster, an organic chemistry grad student and also a previous accomplice. The four of us would make a good team. We arranged our equipment and food, choosing to forgo both crampons and snowshoes in the hope the the conditions would be just right.

On Saturday morning we left Vancouver under light showers with what little ensurance one can get from an optimistic weather forecast. By the time we reached Whistler there were a few sunny breaks, but the summit of Wedge remained concealed. We pulled into the parking lot, the first arrivals of the long weekend, at no earlier than 9:30am. By the scaldingly early hour of 10, we were under way.

After an hour on the trail we were passed by some day trippers heading to the lake and back. Soon our gaiters were on, and we followed on up into the snow. In the forest, the well packed trail supported our weight, but a misstep sent Erik in up to his...

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