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Diadem Normal Route
Timestamp Free: 2020.03.31 - 14:55:00
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges / Winston Churchill Range
  (2 days)
Participants: Grant Hvizdos, Jaye Selin
Difficulty: 3: Steep snow climbing with crampons, avalanche danger
Article describes climb of Diadem Peak via the Normal Route described in Selected Alpine Climbs.
As originally posted by Grant Hvizdos: Saturday afternoon we parked the car at the Mount Alberta parking lot on the icefields parkway about 10 km north of the icefields center. Crossed the Sunwapta river (damn, damn cold) and cached running shoes on opposite side. Followed the trail along the creek, this trail initially runs high above the creek as it cascades through a canyon then returns to the creek bed higher up. Once reaching the point where the trail dips to the creek bed try to keep as close to the creek as possible as there is generally a trail along the bed. If the water is too high you will be stuck in the trees. There is a fairly well beaten path through the trees. It has a tendency to meander back and forth dodging deadfalls etc. Not the most efficient route although it is a salve to badly battered knees on the retreat.

You will rarely, if ever, lose site of the creek once you reach the creek bed. The farthest you will be away is likely right after you pass a huge boulder when entering the moraine. This section is very well cairned. I say this because we ended up wandering through the moraine below Cromwell before returning to the path farther up. It took 2 1/2 hours from the car to reach the bivi site at the base of the glacier. There are several very well constructed wind shelters there, we made use of one and crashed at around 8pm. Apparently neither of us turned our alarms on and we ended up sleeping in till 6 am when I awoke from a dream about not turning my alarm on. Then a great deal of duct taping ensued when I determined that the small critter that chose to run over our tent during the night had chewed through the nipple on my platypus bladder. Around 8 am we actually began moving up the glacier. Some medium sized holes on the glacier but all...

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