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Ascent of Mt. Oke
Timestamp Free: 2020.02.26 - 05:40:58
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges
  (4 days)
Participants: Rick Collier, Martin Kripple
Difficulty: 4: Serious and exposed scrambling, depending on route
On a four-day trip that included ascents of Mt. Oke and Curtis Pk. Martin and I traversed Wenkchemna Pass, Tokumm Creek, Misko Pass, Biddle Pass, and then exited at Lake O'Hara
On August 15th, Martin and I started out from Moraine Lake (climbers beware: the parking lot was a zoo!) about 10:30am, marched up the switchbacks toward Larch Valley, contoured through the Valley of Ten to Eiffel Lake (82 N/8 - Lake Louise - GR 527857), and then toiled up the rocky slopes to Wenkchemna Pass (about 7.5 km), which we reached in hot sun about 2:00pm after some 2500' of climbing; good views S down Prospectors Valley (See Oke). Lots of people up here, especially for a week day.

Then down the thousand feet into the Eagle Eyrie area (GR 4978480) - unpleasant scree and hot. My hypothetical ascent route over the unnamed pass to the S of Curtis Peak (GR 497825) looked slabby and dubious from below; it also required us to ascend an extra 500' and we had little idea what the W side held, so we continued to side-hill along the slopes to the W and above Tokumm Creek. But since it was several km to the drainage from Misko Pass (GR 517798), we eventually dropped down into the valley where we found a remnant trail on the E side; we would have saved considerable time had we followed this trail in the first place. By 6:30pm we were within a km of the outflow from the pass, but it was getting late and so we stopped in a small meadow to camp. Despite sitting on a wasps' nest (we retreated quickly!), we had a good supper, and to bed by 9:00pm.

The morning was quite cold, perhaps because of the depth of the valley and the 'air-conditioning' of the stream - there was an inch of solid ice in the bottom of one of the pots. We breakfasted and were off down the creek along the trail until nearly opposite the outflow; we crossed the stream on logs, and then it was a serious, unpleasant, slow, and steep bushwhack for over a thousand feet at which point we...

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