Although this trip took place quite a while back, it looms significantly enough in my memory to perhaps be worthy of inserting into the archives of the Bivouac Encyclopedia.
On April 29, 1989, Bob Saunders, Reg Bonney, and I (Rick Collier) managed to drive Bob's rickety old Honda up the Blaeberry road out of Golden to within a few kilometres of the outflow from the Mummery Glacier, the spring of 1989 being exceptionally dry for that time of year. Although there is a trail in the forest on the NE side of Mummery Creek, in general what one wants to do in making this approach to the Freshfield Icefield is to ascend the alluvial plains at the far SE end and then make one's way as best as possible up through forest, deadfall, and all the other lovely surprises that the snout-end of a glacial area can provide. The right-hand (NE) side of the drainage provides the easiest approach, although little of it is easy until you get above the timber. Since it is a drive of some five hours from Calgary to Mummery Creek, we did not get all the way to Mummery Pass (that leads to the Freshfield Icefield) that first day. My guess is that we camped on the snow at about 7500' at approximately GR 114258 (82 N/10 -- Blaeberry River).
On the 30th, which dawned bright and sunny (unlike the previous day), we ascended Karakal (10,250') and Jones (10,250'); these two peaks are only informally named and so do not appear on the map. However, they are approximately GR 104262 and 103269. Both can be ascended relatively easily, but the climbs are by foot once one leaves the glacier. We then continued on up the Mummery Glacier and dropped down the snow slope between Gilgit and Helmer, a descent that was steeper than it looked on the map. Our camp was at approximately... To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
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