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Mount Bryce - Northeast Ridge
Timestamp Free: 2019.10.22 - 17:34:47
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges / Columbia Icefield
  (3 days)
Participants: Garth Ferber, Joe Catellani
Difficulty: 5: Overall length of climb, rather than any given section is crux. Conditions will vary with snowcover. Generally dry conditions preferred. Hard to protect initial 100 m rock triangle.
Ascent of NE and SW (main) peaks of Mount Bryce via NE ridge. Center peak was bypassed to south, same as historic first ascent. Short approach via Rice Brook and Bush River logging roads.
Exploration is still the epic journey "to dream, to prepare yourself, to assemble your team, to go forth and be tested mentally and physically by the gods. To pass the test, to be given truth, and then come back and share the wisdom". So here's my Mount Bryce NE Ridge trip report.

Long anticipated; finally realized! Garth had the foresight to bring the "lucky pig", used to assure fun hog conditions, usually good powder for skiing. And it worked! Amazingly, the 11 km Rice Brook road was ungated and driveable in the Subaru (just barely) for 9+ km to 5500' (about 52:01.5-117:16.8). The road has been "decommissioned " so this drivablity won't last long. The time is now for an easy approach. The climb probably hasn't gotten much easier; it's very trad up there (circa 1902).

Tuesday, Aug 15, 2000: the approach to the 9200' col was casual and pleasant (see waypoints), great to be climbing in the Rockies after skipping a year. Rain and snow showers for a couple hours, about 2 cm new snow at 9200'. We saw party of 3 rapping over 'schrund in direct descent from W side of col, but out of communication distance. There is a nice bivy site at the east end of the col complete with tarn and views of the Columbia Icefield, and more as showers cleared. We hiked up "little resplendant" (a knob to NW) for a better view of Bryce, although it was mostly wrapped in a thin veil of cloud, but very sexy.

Wow, this is a BIG mountain! I had only seen it from the distance(Mt. Athabasca and Parkers Ridge) before. Who's this over the hill, middle-aged fool kidding? Better to burn out that to turn to rust!? I should have been more careful reading "Sandbags in the Canadian Rockies" when it says "Bryce is a huge, isolated mountain. . .the jewel of the mountain is the NE ridge traverse. ....

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