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Mt. Alfred From the South - New Way
Timestamp Free: 2017.12.12 - 23:19:17
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Powell Divide
  (4 days)
Participants: Christie Lepitre, Mark Forsyth, Colin Dionne Bushwacking
A new access route from the Eldred valley. The Alfred glacier is unmarked on map 92 K/1. It lies at GR220620. Tee lake is mapped just south of Mt. Alfred, at 3763'. Did not make summit.
Mt. Alfred, New route via. Tee Lake Gap, From the Eldred Valley.

Mount Alfred has long been regarded as Powell River's crown jewel. At 7800 feet the main summit is the highest peak accessible from the Powell River logging-road system. It was originally climbed in the fifties from the head of Jervis Inlet via Alfred creek. In the mid eighties expanding logging operations allowed local climbers, Rob Richards, Michael Conway-Brown, and Allen Parsons to ascend Alfred from low down in the d-branch valley through miles of old growth. Their route ascended the old timber on the left margin of the major gully that extends down to the valley floor from the snout of the Alfred glacier. The glacier spills out through a jagged col. separating split peak and table, Alfred's little brothers. This col. is the traditional campsite for a summit bid.

In the early nineties logging and the subsequent road deactivation left climbers still low in the valley but separated from the peak by miles of logging debris. Access was restored by volunteer effort via the Higgy hell trail. This route involves a tremendous amount of side hill travel in extreme terrain and delivers you in the gully still very low down. Few parties gain the glacier in two days. With a summit day and two days out a typical ascent takes five days, with eight being a common time frame. Several noble winter attempts have been made, but the large distance of side-hill on the Higgy Hell Trail, and extreme avalanche hazard in the gully have utterly repulsed all attempts. The ascent of Alfred via Tee Lake lies to rest a long-standing debate about the feasibility of an ascent from that direction.

Our trip began the usual way, early, followed by two and a half hours of logging road travel through the steaming big wall...

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