On August 10, 2000, Peter Rowlands and I climbed Mt. Deltaform by the west ridge, from the Neptuak Col, but we approached it from the southwest cirque instead of over Mt. Neptuak.
[photo]deltaform2rr.jpg[caption]View North Up the Col Headwall From Camp in the Cirque Between Neptuak and Deltaform[/photo]
Here are the details:
We started on Aug. 9, and hiked up from Moraine Lake, over Wenkchemna Pass and down Prospector's Valley about 2 km from the Eagle's Eyrie to reach the cirque between Neptuak and Deltaform. We found ample sign of bears in Prospector's Valley, so were happy to hike up well above treeline in this cirque to camp at the last 'grass', about 7800', with a stream and a huge boulder nearby.
In perfect view from our campsite was the headwall of the Neptuak/ Deltaform Col, featuring a prominent snow gully that apparently went most of the way up, and we decided to try that route to the col. We left camp at about 6:30 next morning, climbed several hundred feet of the outflow snowfield to reach the gully, and headed up the gully after an awkward move past a chockstone at its base. Travel up the gully was efficient on steep but firm snow for a distance of some 2000 ft until we reached a bottleneck, where we had to make a few dicey moves up a step and a low-angled slab to reach the final 200 ft of snow before the gully narrowed into a canyon-chimney. Instead of attempting to climb straight up that, we traversed a good scree ledge around the buttress on the left, and that took us into another big gully, this presenting us a series of water-worn ledges and steep scree to the col at the base of Mt. Neptuak. After a quick lunch there, we started off toward the summit block of Deltaform at about 9:00.... To see the full trip report you must login as a paid member. Use the Login Page. (message p3)
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