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Joffre Peak (West Face)
Timestamp Free: 2020.03.31 - 15:09:32
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Lillooet Ranges / Joffre Group
  (2 days)
Participants: Tom Kuczmierowski, Andrew Borthwick,Rhys Gibb and Lesley
Difficulty: 5: Up to class 5.4
We thought, that this could be one of the last nice weekends so myself, Rhys, Lesley and Andrew decided to head up Duffey Lake road and give Joffre Peak a try.
We reached Joffre Lakes pretty quick , took a snack break and studied the route thru the icefall. It didn't look all that good from down below. We headed up, trying to stay well left and away from the crushing ice. Lots of loose scree got us up to the Matier Glacier in about two hours.

We set up camp on the glacier just below Joffre, having awesome views all around. Matier, Hartzell, Spetch ,Slalok to the left and Cayoosh range to the right, and of course Joffre. The weather was just gorgeous. We took a good look at our route, it looked awful. The prominent gully that we supposed to go up to get to the northeast ridge was in really bad shape. It looked very steep and extremely loose, with high potential for rockfall. We left those worries for the next day and enjoyed the afternoon. We bivied and fell asleep to the sky full of stars just as I fell asleep, I heard some voices waking me up. There were two climbers who looked like were in trouble, asking for help. Apparently they underestimated the climb on Matier and darkness cought them before they could get down to their camp at Joffre Lakes. They had no head lamps and asked me if there was anything that we could do to help them out. I thought that chances of us getting caught by dark were pretty slim so I lent them my headlamp and asked to leave it underneath my car in the parking lot. They were very grateful for that cause descending to the lakes in the dark was impossible.

The next day we woke up just after six and got going by seven thirty. We weren't to enthusiastic to go up the loose gully, but we spotted an another gully running up right up the west face. We decided to give that a try. Gully was filled with snow and we climbed on the left side of it in between the snow and the rock. Unfortunately we left...

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