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Mount Garibaldi - Northeast Face (Normal Route)
Subject Mountain: Mount Garibaldi
Difficulty: Steep snow (45 degrees)

Summary: From the glacier just north of The Tent at 2400m, kick steps in a fairly straight line up the 45 degree snow slopes to a saddle just north of the final peak. Cross the bergshrund (usually filled with snow March-June) just below the ridgeline, then gain the ridge. From the col on the NW ridge, walk up the ridge to the summit. Most parties have ice axe and rope, but often don't use rope. The peak is often climbed as part of a ski traverse of the Neve.

Detail: Unfortunately, no-one has yet published a GPS track log of the exact route. But here are some trip reports which have some fairly good waypoints relating to the standard northeast face route:

  1. North East Route by Henrik Hinkkala This report shows the entire route, including the approach. This route is close to the original first ascent route.

  2. Northeast Face Route - R Tivy If bergschrund causes problems, it can be bypassed on either side, although this is steeper and more exposed. Equipment: Ice axe, light rope AvgTime: 2 hours from neve

If you zoom in on the current satellite view to 20m, I think you can actually see a long curved line of footprints going up to the crevasses.

The first ascent is described in the CAC 1907-08 journal, pp.205-211 and involved following the Tsee-Ki (now Cheekye) River to its source, from where the Warren Gl. Neve was gained and ascended to the base of the East face.