Home     Help   Index     Login
Wedge Mountain - North Arete
Subject Mountain: Wedge Mountain
Difficulty: 45 degree snow / ice, AD-

Summary: A classic moderate route. Approach from Wedgemont Lake and cross the Wedgemount Glacier past an icefall to gain the North Arete where the arete flattens. Alternatively climb the entire arete from the Wedge-Weart Col.

Detail: The arete is a narrow low angle ridge with impressive east and west faces. Climbing is generally quite exposed, but not difficult. Snow angle on the arete steepens to 45 degree just before reaching Wedge's summit plateau. Descent is by the same route or by the West Ridge (long). The arete may be corniced on either or both sides. In spring, the preferred route is via the Wedgemount Icefall. By late summer once the snow melts off the lower part of the arete, the preferred route is via the complete arete from the Wedge-Weart col.

The point where arete flattens is at GR151542 on 92 J/2 (second edition). This route is refered to as the "Northeast Arete" in Kevin McLane's Alpine Select Guidebook.