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Lake of the Hanging Glacier # 983

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Date: 1997.08
Vantage Point: Looking SE from Airplane directly above Horsethief Creek.

Caption: Shows the Lake of the Hanging Glacier just after breakup. Prominent places from the left include: at the immediate right the lower west flank of Granite Peak, the west aspect of Mt. Maye, Commander Mountain and the Jumbo Neve, Jumbo Mountain and Karnak Mountain (behind Commander and Jumbo Neve), The three peaks of The Lieutenants (W peak is furthest right), and the east aspect of Glacier Dome. The large snow/glacier covered E face of Mount Hamill can be seen the distance in the middle right, and Blockhead Mountain is directly in front of that. To the left of Blockhead a good eye can pick out Redtop Mountain.

PhotoDescr: The first ascents of Granite and Maye contoured around the left side of the lake to the first forest and meadow near the middle of the lake. From there the slopes and gully were followed to the Granite/Maye saddle and then the summits.

The first ascent of the W peak (furthest right) of The Lieutenants contoured around the right side of the lake and gained the ridge. From there it followed the ridge and the right skyline to gain the W peak summit. The second ascent of the W peak was done up the east face by the legendary Fred Beckey and partner J. Rupley. They went around the left side of the lake and crossed the glacier to gain the base of the east face. From reading the ascent information I believe they started near the right end of the Ice front of the glacier and gained the top of the cliffs below the large snow slope. They then went leftward up the Rock Rib below the upper snow slope to the left to gain its base. They then ascended the upper snow slope to the base of the final wall, climbing it and reaching the right skyline near the W peak summit, then the summit. The first ascent of the Center Peak was done along the right skyline from the W peak. The first ascent of the E Peak ascended the icefall below Commander to the Jumbo Neve, then followed the left skyline to the E Peak summit.

The first ascent of Commander was done by a party that included the McCarthy's and Conrad Kain and started from Farnham Creek. They gained the N ridge which is the skyline going left from the summit, and followed it to the summit. A variant of that route was done from the left side of the lake. They gained the Commander-Maye saddle and followed the N ridge as in the first ascent. The S ridge (right skyline from summit) was descended by the first ascenders of the N ridge, and ascended from the Commander-Guardsmen col which is just visible to the left of Jumbo.

The first ascent of Jumbo was done by the McCarthy's and Kain party after they descended the south ridge of Commander. They followed the easy snow slopes to the summit. The W ridge (right skyline) has been ascended from the Jumbo/Karnak col. The first winter ascent of Jumbo was done from Farnham Creek by Conrad Kain on snowshoes. He gained the Commander/Jumbo col and followed the snow slopes to the summit.

Karnak was first ascended by a party which included the McCarthy's and Conrad Kain from Jumbo Creek, and the ascent line is out of view. The W face of Karnak which is visible below the summit has been ascended from Jumbo Creek as well.

Traverses of Jumbo and Karnak are popular these days, and a Traverse of Commander is also a common route done. In fact, all three could be traversed.

The first ascent of Glacier Dome started from the right side near the outlet of the lake. It ascended the slopes to reach the glacier near the Seracs visible, then went right up towards the summit which is out of view.

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