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Eldorado Peak - East Ridge # 8917

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Date: 2006.08.26
Vantage Point: From along the Eldorado Glacier

Caption: Eldorado Peak's East Ridge is the obvious right hand sky line. Klawatti Peak can be seen poking up on the right, as can a few of the Tepeh Towers.

PhotoDescr: I had a magnificent day out climbing Eldorado's east ridge. The glacier was in great shape (didn't need crampons , although many climbers were using them as a precaution) and the climb up the ridge was very scenic and pleasant. Mostly Class 2 and 3 with a few short exposed steeper sections near the summit. It is also possible to crampon up the final steep ice and traverse the knife edge snow ridge, and is what makes this peak so deservedly popular! And the views from the summit are amongst the most scenic in the North Cascades.

On the way up the ridge, I found it best to gain the base of the ridge, climb on snow (i. e., the glacier) on the north side for a few hundred meters, and then regain the rock ridge where crevasses and possibly weak snow bridges will likely be encountered. Higher up one may choose between climbing the steep snow and ice face to the knife edged ridge, or scramble up the mostly granite ridge directly to the summit.

Some climbers choose to do this as a long day trip (6800 feet vertical), but the majority make the most of it, and camp either in the Eldorado basin or near the base of the ridge.

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