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Wedge Mountain: Getting High on North Arete # 806

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Date: 2001.07.22
Vantage Point: Wedge Mountain: North Arete

Caption: The photo shows the party high on the North Arete of Wedge Mountain; corniced ridge with a view to the Owls in the background(left).

PhotoDescr: Wedge Mountain has been on my hit list for a while. When Will(sorry, I'll update his last name later!) invited me to join him along with another friend after the ACC Blanshard Peak trip, I naturally said yes. The plan was to do the classic North Arete. We hiked in Friday night and did the usual...pitching tent up in the dark. Got up around 4:00am and started walking an hour later. Weather forcast for Saturday was anything but sun; sure enough, big-o rain drops started to come down hard. We turned around at approximately 7:00am from the toe of the glacier. Well, the rest of the saturday was very relaxing. That afternoon, we met the poster boy(man)Drew Brayshaw, mello Brent Nixon, and Brent's lovely girlfriend Sandra(sorry, no last name). Very very interesting and nice people.

We got up around 4:30am(?) on Sunday morning and went for the summit. No crevasses were encountered because we did the whole arete by avoiding the ice fall. I think either way, it takes about the same amount of time to do. The arete was exposed, fun, and a worthy route. We used a mixture of "riding" slow shallow avalanche and slide-running to get off the glacier. I can't remember when we got back to the cabin...probably around 2:00pm. A little rest, we headed back down to the valley. Sandra was a bit concerned about Drew and Brent since they were off to doing a new route on the Owls. However, things worked out fine later.

Beautiful Wedgemount Lake and impressive peaks make this part of the Garibaldi a must visit.

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