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Blanshard, the Ears, and a Smidgen of Edge # 7719

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Date: 2005.11.22
Vantage Point: From Highland Helicopters Bell 206

Caption: Blanshard Needle SE aspect, the Blanshard-Edge col with Golden Ears through the col, and S ridge of Edge rising to right out of photo

PhotoDescr: This was one of THOSE days. Get up at 5. Meet Fred Touche at Pitt Polder at 7:30 a. m. I had had the opportunity to hire a friend because everyone else at work was too busy to play field assistant. Sit at Polder until 9:30, hiking around in the fog looking for our crewboat. I saw a family of river otters and a blue heron but no crewboat. Frozen fog was riming up my wool sweater.

Fred found the watchman. Our crewboat wasn't making it down the lake in the fog.

Fred drove back to North Van. I drove to work. At work they said I'd better take advantage of this good weather. I called Fred and told him to come back out to Abbotsford. Then I started calling helicopter companies.

Highland Helicopters came through royally. Arnie picked us up at Abby Airport and shuttled us through to Alvin on two hours' notice. On the way there he gave us a little aerial tour of the Golden Ears Group 'cause he knew we were climbers.

The standard route on Blanshard goes up the sunlit rib right of the gully. The rib LEFT of the gully looks less bushy and may be unclimbed. The west face route is around to the left (out of sight). The shadowed east face is likewise unclimbed. Possibly good in winter (some shattered crap is visible in the chimney when there is no snow).

Shaun Neufeld and I climbed direct to the Edge-Blanshard col in Jan 2001 from Evans Creek and continued most of the way to Edge from there. I would like to go back and traverse from Blanshard to Golden Ears in winter. Brian Moorehead (FA of West Face of Blanshard and a couple routes on Edge, too) tells me it is a very worthy traverse. This would certainly have been a good day to do it.

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