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Miles From Ordinary # 7628

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Date: 2005.07.26
Vantage Point: From the glacial cirque to the southeast of Frontier

Caption: Frontier Mountain with the southeast buttress of its east peak which we climbed facing the camera. We named the route "Miles From Ordinary". This view is rather foreshortend.

PhotoDescr: I took this shot during a day of reconnaissance on July 26th. Don Serl and I relaxed in the sun on a large boulder on the glacier above our camp in Bifrost Pass.

The following day we climbed our route, "Miles From Ordinary", on the obvious buttress facing the camera. It was about a "D" and had 10 pitches or so with the crux coming on a short overhanging wall 3 pitches up which was pumpy 5.10 jamming. The rock is granite-like gneiss (I think??!?) and is not as solid as granite but nearly, and it is more beautiful and featured. Some really fun climbing was had. I was really psyched as we reached the previously unclimbed east summit and built a cairn. . . great route, about 12 hrs return to camp, expect lineups!

To our amazement there were goat tracks in the snow on the (unclimbed by humans) east ridge, which makes up the righthand skyline.

We bypassed the lowest part of the ridge via snowslopes to the left, cutting back in to begin climbing at the obvious spot (clearly visible in the photo).

We descended by rappelling once down the upper headwall and cutting west down a loose dyke to reach a couloir (hidden in this photo) that spat us back out on the glacier.
  Don put a good report on cascadeclimbers.com which details more this climb as well as our other activities during our 12 days camped in Bifrost Pass in the northern Waddington Range.

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