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Looking Down the North Face of Hozomeen # 6607

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Date: 2005.04.29
Vantage Point: From summit

Caption: Tyler Linn finishing up on the north face of the North Peak of Hozomeen.

PhotoDescr: The north face route on Hozomeen is an excellent, mostly moderate weekend outing. However, "the hourglass" contained some good bits of ice for us on this day and armed with only a single tool, was a tricky downclimb.

Parties looking to do this route are advised to carry ice tools with reverse curved picks; Tyler's general mountaineering axe was bouncing right off the bullet hard water ice, forcing him onto the rock at the side of the pitch.

The standard approach follows the 12km Skyline Trail, which was a postholing annoyance on this spring day, so we elected to bash straight down from the col north of the Peak to the Skagit Road on our way back, turning our 7hr approach time to a 3hr return to the truck. This route is mentioned in both Beckey and Fairley as an alternative to the Skyline Trail. There is, however, a good deal of windfall and slide alder, and the route would likely be unenjoyable on ascent.

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