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Wedge - North Arete Variations # 604

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Date: 2001.05.21
Vantage Point: From the summit of Parkhurst Mountain

Caption: The North Arete of Wedge Stretched out it its entirety.

PhotoDescr: We climbed the complete arete (red) then descended the regular route (blue). Overall, an outstanding climb. We found the lower section of the arete to be the most exposed and challenging given the snowy conditions, but this typically changes as snow melts through the season and the lower arete becomes an easy rock scramble along the crest.

Travelling down off the arete and past the icefall was easy under the early season conditions shown, but this gets progressively more difficult as the glacier melts out. Note that there is also some danger of icefall on the regular route where the glacier grinds against a rock buttress above the route.

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