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The "Infamous" Peak 1953 # 5765

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Date: 2004.03.16
Vantage Point: From Foley FSR

Caption: The steep northeast face of Pk. 1953 southeast of Foley.

PhotoDescr: This peak is on the southeast ridge of Foley, one ridge over from the peak Drew mentions as "SubFoley" in this photo essay It is labelled Peak 1953 on the metric edition of 92 H/4.

This has been the scene of two forgettable attempts on a series of steep ice weeps that form in the narrow, partially visible gully between steep ribs on the northeast face. In 2003 Mike Layton, Justin Thibault and I met in the wee hours of a parking lot in Sumas and after having to witness a drunk teenaged girl checking into a hotel with three men twice her age at 1 a.m., we stood below the route at 4 a.m. and though the route was definitely "in" and very enticing, it was also warming dramatically and the rocks soon began falling as the sun hit the face.

On the second attempt it was cold enough, but the face had too much fresh snow on it for a safe attempt. Alpine ice climbing on the coast sure is fun!

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