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Schism Rock: lowland limestone on the way to Dog Creek # 5523

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Date: 2004.08.26
Vantage Point: From the Canoe Creek road, looking west

Caption: Schism Rock as seen from the road

PhotoDescr: A recent return to Vancouver via Alkali Lake and Dog Creek brought back memories of this climb. The area resembles a minature Marble Canyon and the rock is similar, but the crag is nowhere near as large or spectacular as Marble Canyon.

Dick Culbert and I climbed the pinnacle on May 31, 1964. From the uphill notch, we climbed up and left to reach the skyline ridge. Dick used one bolt for aid on the one-pitch lead, but my diary notes that it would probably go free. (This might have been the only bolt that either of us ever placed outside Squamish.) Call it old-style Class 4-5, with a touch of aid and great exposure. "Schism Rock" is our 1964 name; anyone know if there is a more widely accepted local name?

The climb is not in Lyle Knight's guidebook. Does anyone know if it has had a repeat ascent?

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