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North Face of James Turner # 4679

Below is a description of the photograph you were looking for, and the circumstances surrounding the photo.
Date: 2003 November
Vantage Point: From On High

Caption: Almost the full height of the north face of James Turner, with the Lillooet River Valley in the background. Gunsight Peak is at upper right.

PhotoDescr: The oft-discussed 1993 John Black/Reinhard Fabische north face line lies just west (right) of the crevassed hanging glacier, just behind the rock rib. It is possible this route is unrepeated(?), mostly because of the stupid long approach, but maybe also because the photo McLane uses in Alpine Select shows the face in very dry, broken, and unappealing conditions. Black's report in the 1994 CAJ about the marathon must-make-it-to-work-tomorrow first ascent is one of my favourite trip reports and is a fun read.

The face was first climbed in May with a ski in, but as this photo shows, a good fall window would also be a nice time and would avoid a nasty spring ski up to the lake, a rude experience which I made the mistake of doing a few years ago. It looks as if there are maybe two other large snow lines on this face, exiting on the west ridge below the summit, which would only be slightly shorter routes than the original line.

As the helicopter flew up onto the Wedgemount Glacier on the way to check out James Turner, we could see tracks leading up to the west face of Wedge. We didn't think of looking for actual people, but in fact Don Serl, Rob Nugent and Janes Ales were waiting on the summit for us to buzz by!

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