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The Guard Wall (Stanley Headwall) # 4595

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Date: Sept 27-2003
Vantage Point: From Stanley Glacier Trail

Caption: The extremely steep east aspect of the Guard Wall. I did not know this wall was named but found Guard Wall in Graeme Pole's Canadian Rockies Superguide. However, Drew Brayshaw emailed me and noted that this is called the Stanley Headwall by most people.

PhotoDescr: The Guard Wall/Stanley Headwall is the name for the huge wall on the east aspect of the ridge extending northwest from Stanley, technically part of the Stanley Peak massif. I was reading in Graeme Pole's Canadian Rockies Superguide that the wall is about 700m high, and the dark streaks visible on the wall are water seeps which in the winter attract ice climbers.

As you come up the Stanley Glacier Trail you walk below the Guard Wall for at about 1km. The wall is incredibly steep and Drew Brayshaw emailed me with some route information. There is one rock route on it put up by Raphael Slawinski and Marcus Norman called "The Incredible Loneliness of the Man Without Hands". It is 10 pitches long with a grade of 5.10+ and the rock is reportedly excellent, all natural pro (no bolts, good cracks).

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