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Queen Bess from Northwest # 4333

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Date: 2003.08.30
Vantage Point: From northwest (Mantle Peak)

Caption: Mount Queen Bess from northwest

PhotoDescr: The north ridge is the left skyline. The route can be climbed in its entirety from the col with Sussex at left or gained easily up the short triangular couloir above the bergschrund. From there a narrow rock ridge with gendarmes and loose blocks (5.5) leads to the summit. The diagonal couloir on the small, true north face appears to be a great line but has a wicked bergschrund at the bottom guarding the entry, and steep seracs threatening from the hanging glacier above-right on the upper west face. I don't believe it has been climbed but I could be wrong.

The Munday/Hall couloir is apparently the right hand of two longer couloirs just left of the steeper SW face, leading up to the summit icecap. Probably best earlier in the season as the mixed climbing exit apparent here would be all snow then. The west rib is just right of the Munday couloir. Mostly class 3-4 with some low class 5 say the reports but it might be harder.

The SW face has no recorded routes yet I think. Looks like snow and ice lines offer the best route choice.

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