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Mount James Turner from the Musical Bumps # 4278

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Date: 2003.07.17
Vantage Point: S of Whistler

Caption: Mt. James Turner is an illusive peak, normally hidden from the west

PhotoDescr: After banging around the Spearhead Traverse for five days this summer, my buddy Don and I were convinced more than ever that we had to get in to the area surrounding Mt. James Turner. Every once and a while, we'd get a spectacular view of this peak that normally remains hidden from most western viewscapes. Its summit spire, however, spells adventure.

James Turner is well hidden from the west because of the bulk of the Wedge/Weart massif and the protective fringe of the northern Spearhead Range including Phalanx, Spearhead, Blackcomb, Decker, and Trorey. Situated almost in the middle of the northern zone of Garibaldi Park, James Turner requires more than a weekend for most parties to successfully summit. During our rounding of the Spearhead Traverse, it was clear that a west to east route, from Wedgemount to Tenas Peak, would be a very satisfying way to include an ascent of James Turner.

In this view, taken from just east of Flute Summit, James Turner fills the window between Blackcomb's Disease Ridge and Decker Mountain. The preferred route to the summit is up the Wedgemount Lake Trail, past the hut, to the col at 2407m between Wedge and Weart, and then across the Weart and Needles Glacier towards the Chaos Glacier and the north aspect of James Turner, which is hidden somewhat behind the obvious snow ramp in front of the summit pyramid.

The N Face of James Turner goes at TD ice, 5.7, and is a route seldom climbed. Its inclusion in Alpine Select might change that situation a little!

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