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Pandareus-Red Tusk-Ionia # 3892

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Date: 1996.06.07
Vantage Point: From Serratus-Ionia col.

Caption: Route topo intended as a reference for climbing route descriptions.

PhotoDescr: The camera is looking SSE from Serratus-Ionia col. Crescent Glacier is mainly hidden behind the NE Ridge of Pandareus. Red Tusk is visible 0.5 km due south of Pandareus. Lydia Mountain is off the left side of the shot with a portion of its NW ridge visible. Culbert (1974) describes an approach to Red Tusk that involves rapping or downclimbing the steep section of the ridge. The approach leads to a high shoulder east of Red Tusk. The shoulder is partially visible as a sunlit snow and rock face in the vee between Pandareus' west ridge and the divide north of Red Tusk.

The west side of the divide north of Red Tusk is completely shaded. Alice and Dick Culbert traversed across this face in 1969. They ascended to the divide on a loose, Class 3 rib, which is probably the one between the two prominent and long snow slopes. They traversed the partially sunlit tower that is visible against the dark summit tower of the Red Tusk. The final tower was 1 1/2 leads on surprisingly firm rock.

Just beyond the NE Ridge of Pandareus lies its sunlit east face. The first ascent party crossed the NE Ridge at the snow col between the toe of the ridge and the small gendarme just visible on the left. A bergschrund was negotiated to gain good rock next to the ridge (likely later in summer).

Ionia is marked on the federal 92 G/14 map as the more northerly of two evenly high, adjacent summits along the divide north of Pandareus. Culbert ascribes Ionia to the more southerly of the two. The Kafers' ascent of Ionia from the north appears to treat the more northerly summit as a gendarme on the main N divide, while the original ascent party climbed Ionia from its col with Pandareus with no mention of a gendarme. It seems likely that the true summit is actually the more southerly of the two.

The Kafers also describe an ascent of the west ridge of Pandareus, which is partially sunlit near its crest. From the Pandareus-Ionia col, easy rock leads to a gap in the west ridge. This is presumably the sharp spike on the extreme right. They rappelled into the notch and then traversed right over a slab to avoid an overhang opposite. A Class 4 section beyond the slab returned them to the crest, which was followed on Class 3 rock to the summit.

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