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Whymper and the Valley of Ten Peaks from Vermilion # 2395

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Date: 1992.08.09
Vantage Point: From the summit of Vermilion

Caption: The south aspect of Whymper at middle right, the Valley of the Ten Peaks at the left above the glacier.

PhotoDescr: I attempted Whymper on the original scramble route which started at Highway 93. It went straight up the shaded southeast face from the highway to near the treeline, then traversed left to gain the south ridge (prominent line facing camera at left of shaded souteast face), bypassed a cliff band up a gully, then onto the summit. I was turned back by a small avalanche and unstable snow in the gully on that attempt. I went back and scrambled the southeast slopes which go all the to the summit directly from the highway, which was a much better route. The peaks visible in the distance from left include Allen, Perren, peak 4 (Tonsa), Little and the four fangs of Quadra. Fay and Chimney Peak are between Little and Quadra but hard to define from this angle. All the peaks are part of the Valley of Ten Peaks (except Quadra). There are easier routes up these sides of the mountians. You can ascend Allen by the right or left skyline, traverse to Perren, go out onto the glacier and ascend peak 4 (Tonsa), go back onto the glacier and ascend Little, then descend back to the glacier and ascend Fay.

Highway 93 is visible at lower right, and the creek/drainage at the left coming from the Ten Peaks area is Tokumm Creek, which created Marble Canyon. The creek has a trail that give access to the Fay Hut, and a couple of backwoods campgrounds which can be used for approaches to the Ten Peaks area from the south/southeast.

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