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The Great Gendarme on Bugaboo Spire # 192

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Date: 1999.07.24
Vantage Point: From nearby

Caption: Steve Sheffield stands adjacent to the famous gendarme on the Kain Route of the Bugaboo Spire.

PhotoDescr: The famous Gendarme forms the crux of the standard (Kain) route on Bugaboo Spire, and was famously overcome by Conrad Kain during the first ascent of the route, which he called his most difficult ascent ever. (It now goes at 5.6 and his route on Mt. Louis goes at 5.7, interestingly enough). Here Steve Sheffield prepares to rappel on a descent of the Kain route.

Not a great day weatherwise, it was sunny but cold and windy. Steve and I were supposed to climb Snowpatch with Fred Beckey but Fred changed his mind and went back to the hut. The Kain route was our consolation prize, and I was happy to climb this historic route for my first Bugaboo climb.

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