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Dione South Face # 15567

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Date: 2012.10.25
Vantage Point: below the south couloir

Caption: Dione south face with its prominent central couloir. The standard approach gully is in centre terminating at the south col of Dione. Dione Glacier lower right. Mount Tantalus is the sunlit tower behind Dione on the left.

PhotoDescr: Text by Paul Kubik

Besides the standard approach gulley for Dione, there are a couple of climbing routes on the south face. The first, called "Southwest Spur" in Alpine Select (McLane, 2001), starts near the bottom of the standard couloir above the second berschrund. It trends left to the base of the prominent Y fork in the central couloir. It continues up the centre of the face to intersect the summit ridge near its midpoint. The route dates from 1968 and was put up using traditional technique.

The second route is described in The route starts at the pedestal feature visible in photo centre where Dione Glacier meets the southwest spur. The route wends its way up to the saddle in the southwest spur and traverses right to cross the southwest spur route near the base of the central couloir. It continues right onto the prominent face above the standard gully but staying below the crest formed by the right fork of the central couloir. The last several pitches climb more steeply to intersect the summit ridge immediately above the south col. The route is dubbed "Dehydrated on Dalwhinnie" and rated up to 5.11. It was reportedly put in on rappel and bolted in its entirety using a power rock drill.

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