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Mount Temple south slopes route - Yellow Bands # 1512

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Date: 1993.10.15
Vantage Point: From the south slopes route, at the Yellow Bands

Caption: Ascending the Yellow Bands on the south slopes route. This is one of the only places where you can make use of your hands if you go up the steeper portion. The bands can be walked up on the right aspect of the route. Unbelievable that you can walk to the top of an 11,000' mountain.

PhotoDescr: The environs are spectacular. In the back left is Deltaform Mountain attached to Neptuak Mountain at its right. The small col/pass to the right of Neptuak is Wenkchemna Pass. The entire Grade II 5.5 normal route up Deltaform can be seen. It starts at Wenkchemna pass, goes up over Neptuak, then along the entire ridge to the summit. However, apparently using the Wenckchemna pass approach prolongs the journey and there is a better approach according to Rick Collier in his Deltaform Mountain route description. Most of the IV 5.8 Supercouloir can be seen as well. It is the thin couloir that starts at the avalanche cone at the base of the face, then trends leftward up the face. The route has a difficult reputation.

Eiffel Peak is the peak in the centre of the picture, with the Eiffel Tower the thumb shaped tower attached to the right. The scrambling route up Eiffel comes out of Larch Valley from the lower left and follows the left skyline (southeast slopes).

Pinnacle Mountain is in front of Eiffel to the right and closest to Temple. The isolated summit sits above the vertical walls of the summit block, a true climbers summit, with no easy way up. Pinnacle Mountain has a storied climbing history in which a large metal spike and hemp rope was used during the ascent. The same historical route is a popular Alpine Climb with some sections of Class 5 rock. The route is out of sight as it follows the ridge directly towards Eiffel. I talked to Ian Hunt (Bivouac Author)and found out the Hemp Rope is no longer there anymore.

The east end of Hungabee Mountain can be seen in the background at right, and the North and South Towers of the Goodsirs loom furthest in the background to the right of Neptuak.

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