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Howse Peak from Highway 93 along Waterfowl Lake # 1419

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Date: 2001.09.13
Vantage Point: From Highway 93 along Waterfowl Lake

Caption: The northeast aspect of Howse Peak.

PhotoDescr: The northeast buttress descends from the summit towards the camera and was ascended in 1967 by Don Vockeroth, Lloyd MacKay, and Ken Baker. It has a grade of V 5.8 A0 and at its time was the most difficult route in the Rockies. The north face has the hanging glacier, and was ascended by W. Robinson and Barry Blanchard in 1988. The difficult route carries a grade of VI 5.9 A3. It starts up the buttress, then heads onto the face at the snow ledges. It then heads for the left end of the glacier, then straight up the face to gain the ridge to the right of the summit. For more information on these routes consult Sean Dougherty's Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies. (see Books)

There have been some hard winter routes put up on the East face which is the face left of NE buttress. "Life By The Drop" is graded VI W15+, "M-16" is graded VI W17+ A2, and "Howse of Cards" is graded VI W16X M7. Thanks to Drew Brayshaw for notifying me of this (Dec/02), and the information can be found in Waterfall Ice 4th edition and also on, which is a website edited by Will Gadd.

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