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Mount Chephren - East Face in winter # 1085

Below is a description of the photograph you were looking for, and the circumstances surrounding the photo.
Date: 2001.12.15
Vantage Point: From the Icefields Parkway

Caption: Shows the East face of Mt. Chephren.

PhotoDescr: There are two extreme alpine routes on this face. Starting from the lower left of the face, you should be able to see a 55 degree (approx) gully that trends to the right up the face. The East face route ( V 5.9 A1 ) follows the edge of this then up onto the small black triangular face at the top of it. From there it basically goes straight up through the summit rock bands. At the base of the face in the middle of the picture you should be able to see a large cone shaped buttress. To its left there is a couloir filled with snow and ice. The Wild Thing ( VI 5.9 A3 W4 ) goes up the buttress on the left side of the couloir and then comes out at the top of the couloir. From there it follows the right trending gully up into the middle of the face, then goes straight up through the rock bands. For more information on these routes consult Sean Dougherty's Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies. See Guidebooks.

There is also a new/recent route on the left side of the face which Drew Brayshaw informed me about in Dec/02 (thanks Drew). The route was put up by Raphael Slawinski and Jeff Nazarchuk and is graded V 5.8. It is described in the 2001 AAJ, and if any information is wrong please let me know and I will change it.

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