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Garibaldi - Variation of East Face/Adam-Culbert route # 10313

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Date: 2007.09.09
Vantage Point: From the summit plateau between Dalton Dome and Garibaldi

Caption: Our route up the South side of summit pyramid of Garibaldi (part of the East Face route/Adam-Culbert route variation)

PhotoDescr: One beautiful September weekend (a rarity for the summer of 2007) 7 VOCers did a traverse from Elfin to Brohm ridge and went up the East Face route of Garibaldi to Dalton Dome. Three of us continued on to the top of Garibaldi via a variation in the Adam/Culbert route up the south side of the summit.

After reading Paul Adam's report of the misrating of the route in various guidebooks, we were a bit leery of what it was like. Thinking it just might not be that bad, we gave it a try anyway. Even though our route was different, it was exactly as described in the route report: extremely loose. Piotr Forysinski was the brave soul who led the route, followed by Stu Masterman and myself.

Our route was left of the 'Adam/Culbert route', left of the central bump in the ridge in this photo. This photo shows the route much better. Below and to the left of the bump there is a boulder poking through the snow, we went up from there. Three-quarters of the way up there is a yellow rappel cord (7-8mm) and biner. Above there the route is super sketchy and every hold breaks off, sending junk down on the climber and belayer. We were worried about cutting the ropes and also for Piotr's safety. He got knocked on the head by a fair sized block as well. Little if any protection. Definitely not recommended as a safe route to the summit.

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