|Located south of Downton Lake west of the west branch of Jamie Creek. Mount Vayu is a high pointed rock summit. Northeast of Vayu, the incredibly flat and non-crevassed "Pancake Glacier" provides the most common approach - no need for rope, crampons or ice axes on this one. The rock is granitic but is of variable quality, ranging from sound to highly broken. The summit offers great views of the Thiassi area, Mount Sampson, and the Dickson Range and South Chilcotin uplands.|
There is an error on the provincial TRIM mapping - the Vayu name is misplaced on the 8900' peak immediately north of Vayu. The NTS map shows the correct summit.
Name Notes: "Vayu" in Hindu mythology is a deity associated with the four winds. (However, some locals in Gold Bridge claim the name source was a local prospector, not a Hindu god.) The pronounciation is "vay (as in 'bay')- you".
1. East ridge (1965) R. Culbert, A. Purdey. Class 2. From the Pancake Glacier, ascend up an easy glaciated slope to the col immediately east of Mount Vayu. There can be large crevasses on this slope, so plan accordingly. From the col, the east ridge is a straightforward hike/scramble on talus and snow slopes. Originally approached from the souith via Lone Goat.
2. NW ridge (1996) G. Rowbotham, L.Knight. Class 4-5. Climb the NW ridge from the col with peak 8900. There is one 10m rappel off a blocky gendarme.
3. Bre X Buttress (NE Buttress) (1997) D. Brayshaw, M. Buda. 5.8, A0. (or N Buttress of E Face) Climb dirty ramps on the N face of the E ridge to gain the buttress crest 100m below the ridge; follow to top. 7 pitches, 5.8 A0 (one move of aid)