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Mount Vayu  British Columbia   #975
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges / Bridge-Lillooet Divide

Height: 2794 m -> 9167 feet
Prominence?: 969 m above Hurley-North Pass
Line Parent?: Mount Sampson (16.7 km away, at bearing 179 degrees)
Greater Parent: Mount Sampson (16.7 km away)

Location:   50.77049,-123.13934     50:46:14, -123:08:22   10U 490175 5624312 (24 km N of Mouth of North Creek). (56 km NW of Pemberton). NTS Mapsheet: 092.J.14   AreaCode: FM03/HB73
First Ascent: 1965 Dick Culbert & Alice Purdey
Vayu North Face From Pancake Glacier
Located south of Downton Lake west of the west branch of Jamie Creek. Mount Vayu is a high pointed rock summit. Northeast of Vayu, the incredibly flat and non-crevassed "Pancake Glacier" provides the most common approach - no need for rope, crampons or ice axes on this one. The rock is granitic but is of variable quality, ranging from sound to highly broken. The summit offers great views of the Thiassi area, Mount Sampson, and the Dickson Range and South Chilcotin uplands.

There is an error on the provincial TRIM mapping - the Vayu name is misplaced on the 8900' peak immediately north of Vayu. The NTS map shows the correct summit.

Name Notes: "Vayu" in Hindu mythology is a deity associated with the four winds. (However, some locals in Gold Bridge claim the name source was a local prospector, not a Hindu god.) The pronounciation is "vay (as in 'bay')- you".

1. East ridge (1965) R. Culbert, A. Purdey. Class 2. From the Pancake Glacier, ascend up an easy glaciated slope to the col immediately east of Mount Vayu. There can be large crevasses on this slope, so plan accordingly. From the col, the east ridge is a straightforward hike/scramble on talus and snow slopes. Originally approached from the souith via Lone Goat.
2. NW ridge (1996) G. Rowbotham, L.Knight. Class 4-5. Climb the NW ridge from the col with peak 8900. There is one 10m rappel off a blocky gendarme.
3. Bre X Buttress (NE Buttress) (1997) D. Brayshaw, M. Buda. 5.8, A0. (or N Buttress of E Face) Climb dirty ramps on the N face of the E ridge to gain the buttress crest 100m below the ridge; follow to top. 7 pitches, 5.8 A0 (one move of aid)

Trips within 1 km
44 2001.07.21 Northwest Ridge of Mt Vayu Doug Chinnery
39 1997.08.30 Mt. Vayu - access and the FA of "Bre-X Buttress" Drew Brayshaw


Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
18 Climbers on Vayu's Northwest Ridge Gerry Kollmuss
11 Mount Vayu Area from Sloan Drew Brayshaw
10 Pocket Meadow campsite near Vayu Drew Brayshaw
6 Vayu North Face From Pancake Glacier Drew Brayshaw
3 Vayu Peak East Ridge Alexandru Romanciuc

Placename Photos
19 Sampson from Vayu Tyler Linn
14 Thiassi from Vayu Tyler Linn
12 Glacier View Peak - NW Ridge from Tuber Hill Lucas Earl
10 Nichols Peak - NW aspect from Stanza Peak Lucas Earl
9 Sampson From Vayu Drew Brayshaw
5 Hurley River Headwaters Labelled Panorama Jordan Peters
4 Vayu and Thiassi: Lords of McParlon Jordan Peters
4 Panorama of Sloan/North Creek Ranges and Downton Lake Mike Cleven
4 View West From Truax (Labelled) Drew Brayshaw
3 Setting Up a Trundle On Vayu Drew Brayshaw
2 Climbing Bre-X Buttress, Mount Vayu Drew Brayshaw
2 Frost Fiend area from Vayu Drew Brayshaw