1. South side Not technical. From the top of Canfor 5411, climb through steep clearcut to gain remaining open timber. Steep, open ground is followed to the summit ridge crest. The terrain opens up ~400m below the summit. (About two hours on foot to the summit from the end of Canfor 5411.) Just take the steepest line from the top of the logging road and give 'er.
The south side is a good line on skis but probably not safe on warm, sunny days.
Avoid taking the overgrown pipeline spur off Canfor 5411 which heads up to the col with Box Canyon Creek. The intervening ridge crest between Varley and the col is full of execrescences and gullies that aren't obvious from the 1:50k topo maps.