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Mount Varley  British Columbia   #866
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Coast Mountains / Pacific Ranges

Height: 1639 m -> 5377 feet
Prominence?: 649 m  
Line Parent?: Tetrahedron Peak (6.7 km away, at bearing 270 degrees)
Greater Parent: Tetrahedron Peak (7.0 km away)

Location:   49.60720,-123.47360     49:36:26, -123:28:25   10U 465783 5495067 (19 km N of Langdale). NTS Mapsheet: 092.G.11   AreaCode: EM93/GE07
First Ascent: 1923 R. Fraser; E. Fuller
Mount Varley Ski Ascent
Mount Varley is the highest peak between Rainy River and McNab Creek. The easiest approach is definitely from the south via Canfor road 5411 off Rainy River FSR.

Its tantalizing east face beckons the skier from across Howe Sound. Like Mount Sedgwick a few kilometers further north, the lower part of a potential ski descent runs into hidden bluffs and chutes. The closest approach from the east is via the Box Canyon Creek road reached off McNab Creek road. Before the Box Canyon road swings up its namesake creek valley, a road swings north towards the creek draining Varley's east side. From its junction with Box Canyon Creek road, the latter road is probably overgrown or deactivated.


1. South side Not technical. From the top of Canfor 5411, climb through steep clearcut to gain remaining open timber. Steep, open ground is followed to the summit ridge crest. The terrain opens up ~400m below the summit. (About two hours on foot to the summit from the end of Canfor 5411.) Just take the steepest line from the top of the logging road and give 'er.

The south side is a good line on skis but probably not safe on warm, sunny days.

Avoid taking the overgrown pipeline spur off Canfor 5411 which heads up to the col with Box Canyon Creek. The intervening ridge crest between Varley and the col is full of execrescences and gullies that aren't obvious from the 1:50k topo maps.

Trips within 1 km
41 2007.07.31 A Perfect Little Summit: Mount Varley Natasha Gellatly

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Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
11 Mount Varley Ski Ascent Paul Kubik

Placename Photos
11 Northwestern View from Mount Varley Simon Chesterton
6 East Howe Sound Peaks from Mount Varley Natasha Gellatly
4 Tantalus Range from Mount Varley Natasha Gellatly