Bivouac.com   Mountain Page   Home     Help   Index     Login
Mount Harrison  British Columbia   #809
Ranges: North America Ranges / Rocky Mountains / Canadian Rockies / Continental Ranges / Park Ranges / Harrison Group

Height: 3360 m -> 11024 feet
Prominence?: 1770 m above Bull-East White Pass
Line Parent?: Mount Joffre (52.0 km away, at bearing 360 degrees)
Greater Parent: Mount Assiniboine (95.0 km away)

Location:   50.06039,-115.20573     50:03:37, -115:12:21   11U 628426 5546887 (21 km SE of Whiteswan Lake). (21 km W of Elkford). NTS Mapsheet: 082.J.03   AreaCode: FL05/AC60
First Ascent: 1964 Werner Himmelsback; Ralph Hutchinson; Joe Hutton; Don MacLaurin; Brendan Moss; Paddy Sherman
Mount Harrison North Face
This peak is #65 on the Height List for British Columbia . This peak is #45 in Prominence List for British Columbia .Mount Harrison was the last of the 11000-ft mountains to be climbed in the Canadian Rockies. The reason for the late ascent wasn't difficulty but ignorance among mountaineers about the height of this peak. The south face is an easy scramble.

Name Notes: Adopted in 1964, after RCAF Pilot Office Francis Arthur Harrison, DFC, from Cranbrook.


1. Northwest ridge (1964.08.11) Paddy Sherman and party. Scramble along north ridge. From camp in the upper Bull River valley (immediately north) climb to 9000 foot saddle on the ridge connecting Harrison and Mount Folk. Then head south along ridge, and drop 200' to an easier ridge, then wrap around to below the southwest ridge. This is scree, and from here a gully can be followed to the summit. See First Ascent". Distance: 5 km, 4000' gain AvgTime: 7 hours to summit, 5 hours return
2. North Couloir (1993.10.) Rick Collier, Reg Bonney. Steep, rockfall danger. When I climbed this peak in 1993 with Reg Bonney, we did so on the Thanksgiving weekend in order to have good conditions on the N glacier (really more of an ice couloir). And we did. This is a spectacular alpine climb, but certainly not the easiest ascent route, so I'll mention the details only briefly: ascend snow until directly below the couloir; cross the 'schrund wherever possible; ascend directly up ice that varies from crystallized to blue. The angle gets quite steep very quickly and practically never relents until quite close to the summit; it is a longer climb than appears to be from below. There is the possibility of serious rockfall from the righthand side; the safer, lefthand side, however, is also steeper yet again. October is a good time for this route since the ice has been in permanent shadow for 2-3 weeks by this point.

Trips within 1 km
42 2009.07.00 Harrison: new route on N Face? Route Chris Ferguson
70 1993.10.10 Mount Harrison Approaches and Climbing Routes Rick Collier

Comments

Paper Maps
1:600000Southwest Alberta & Southeast British Columbia Gem Trek
 

Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
11 Mount Harrison - North Aspect Rick Collier
9 Mount Harrison from Mount Peck Rick Collier
8 Harrison Group Rick Collier
8 The North Face of Mount Harrison Steve Sheriff
7 Harrison from the East Rick Collier
6 Mount Harrison North Face Mitch Thornton
6 Harrison from the Northeast Rick Collier
3 Mount Harrison from the West Rick Collier

Placename Photos
7 The South Side of Mount Mike Jeff Volp