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Mount Stuart  Washington   #7943
Ranges: North America Ranges / Pacific Cordillera Range / Cascade Range / Washington Cascades

Height: 2870 m <- 9415 feet
Prominence?: 1634 m above Stevens Pass
Line Parent?: Glacier Peak (72.5 km away, at bearing 347 degrees)
Greater Parent: Glacier Peak (72.5 km away)

Location:   47.47517,-120.90250     47:28:31, -120:54:09   10T 658042 5260103 (23 km SW of Leavenworth).   AreaCode: EM70/EJ70
First Ascent: 1873 Team lead by A. McPherson
Mount Stuart from the South
This peak is #11 on the Height List for Washington . This peak is #6 in Prominence List for Washington .An impressive rock pyramid with a massive granite wall along its northeast flank. There are several pocket glaciers on Mount Stuart's north side. The standard route is via the south slopes, usually on moderately steep snow in early season.

The Stuart Range, a sub-range of the Wenatchee Mountains which extends east from the Cascade crest, includes at least 10 named peaks exceeding 8000 feet in height. It has been described as "the largest mass of exposed granite in the United States". This range and the nearby Enchantment Lakes area is one of the most popular locations in Washington for backcountry hiking/scrambling and camping. However, it is located in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness Area, and there are restrictions on the number of camping permits issued (reservations in advance usually needed).

Name Notes: Named in 1853 by George B. McClellan (later of Civil War fame) for his best friend, Jimmie Stuart. At the time, McClellan was involved in an abortive survey for a railroad route through the Cascades. Later, another major peak in the Stuart Range was named for McClellan himself.

1. Cascadian Couloir 2-3. Ascend couloir to false summit and continue west along ridge to summit.
2. Ulrich's Couloir 2-3. Ascend couloir to ridge and follow to summit. Loose after snow melts out.
3. SE Routes 2-3. Ascend couloir east of Cascadian Couloir and then follow ridge to summit.
4. West Ridge Grade II, 5.4. Technical route accessing the summit from the west.
5. Sherpa Glacier (1956 June) Bill Prater, Gene Prater, Don Torrey, Nelson Torrey. Grade II Ice Climb. Climb Sherpa Glacier to ridge and follow to summit
6. Ice Cliff Glacier (1957.08.05) Bill Prater, Gene Prater, Dave Mahre. Grade II-III Ice Climb. Ascend steep Ice Cliff Glacier to ridge and then follow to summit. Difficult cornice to navigate at the top.
7. North Ridge 5.7-5.9. This is a well-known climb featured in Fifty Classic Climbs Of North America up the prominent N ridge of Stuart.
8. Stuart Glacier Couloir (1944 June) Helmy Beckey and Larry Strathdee. Grade III, 5.7. Ascent Stuart Glacier and then couloir to ridge, following east to summit.

Trips within 1 km
49 2004.07.13 Mount Stuart North Ridge Michael Stanton


Subject Photos   View Thumbnails
18 Clean Granite on the North Ridge of Mount Stuart Michael Stanton
14 Mount Stuart from the South Wayne Weber
12 Mount Stuart from Ingalls Pass Lucas Earl
11 Mount Stuart telephoto from Ingalls Pass Lucas Earl
9 Mount Stuart from Granite Mountain Lucas Earl
9 Mount Stuart from below (south) Lucas Earl
9 Mount Stuart from Iron Bear Lucas Earl

Placename Photos
11 The Palisades and Marcus Peak from Sourdough Ridge Lucas Earl
7 Lake Ingalls and Mount Stuart Lucas Earl